An underground Metro. Human-drawn rickshaws. Trams dating back to
colonial India. Fancy imported cars. Calcutta has all these, and then
some - mini buses, double decker buses, auto-rickshaws, metered taxis,
ferries. Among others things, the transportation options in the city
force you to acknowledge its paradoxes.
Virtually all the different modes of transport that clog the streets
of Calcutta - trams, buses, human rickshaws, auto-rickshaws, metered
taxis, and minibuses - add to the problem of congestion rather than
providing a solution. Only the city's pride and joy, India's first
and only Metro, is an efficient way to get around (though even this
consists of just one line). While using public transport beware of
pickpockets, especially on crowded buses.
Metro
Despite
the occasional power failure or other problem, Calcutta's Russian-designed
Metro, inaugurated in 1984, is a striking contrast to the congested
streets above. Trains operate fairly punctually every few minutes.
Services start at 8am (3pm on Sun) and run until 8.30pm.
There is only a single north-south line which runs from Dum Dum
near the airport, to Tollygunge in the south. The important stops
are: Park Street, Rabindra Sadan, Esplanade, Kalighat. Escalators
are provided at some of the stations - offering thrills to country
cousins visiting from outside the city. A PA system inside the compartments,
and announcements made in 3 languages - Bengali, Hindi and English
- offer help to first-time travellers. For the others, the melodious
voice saying "Doroja bandho kora hochche. Darwaze bandh ho
rahen hain. Doors are closing" is so routine that they heed
the words without really hearing them.
Buses and minibuses
Calcutta
has a vast bus network, which is in operation each day between 5am
and 11pm. You will be subject to overcrowding and possibly get your
pocke t picked if not careful - but then, where in the world can
you travel as cheaply as 1 rupee (one-forty-fifth of a US dollar)?
The faint of heart milk baulk a little to see the buses trundling
along, with ten to twelve men and sometimes women hanging outside
by a toe-hold or finger-hold. Most of the buses belong to private
companies; the red double-deckers and elongated trailer buses belong
to the Calcutta Transport Corporation - CTC.
Private brown-and-yellow minibuses offer a slightly more expensive
option. Their destinations are usually painted in Bengali and English
on the sides, and conductors shout them out at bus stops or major
junctions. Originally intended as seating-only services, they long
started taking on standing passengers.
Taxis
Taxis
in Calcutta are good value for money. Most operate on meters, although
you will most likely be asked to pay more if travelling late at
night. 99 per cent of the taxis are old Ambassadors. Because of
constantly-changing fares, most of the time, you pay not the price
on the meter, but a figure produced with the help of a fare conversion
table, which the driver must carry.
Trams
Trams
started operating in Calcutta in 1873. In the 21st century, some
of the trams you see are of 19th century vintage. There have been
moves to get the cumbersome vehicles off the rods - or tracks -
until they really go, one is advised to get one if in no particular
hurry to get anywhere. The women's only coaches are a novelty for
tourists.
Car rental companies
These include Car Rent Services, 233-4A AJC Bose Rd (441 285); Durgapur
Automobiles, 113 Park St (294 044); New Lakshmi Travels, 296 Rashbehari
Ave (440 5317); Rent-a-Car Service, 1-5 Dover Lane (467186); Sona
International, 17 Surya Sen St (241 6186); and Wheels on Road, 150
Lenin Sarani (273 081). The Government of India Tourist Office and
most large hotels also arrange cars. Typical charges are around
Rs100 per hour plus Rs4.50 per km with a minimum charge of Rs500.
Rickshaws
Calcutta
has the dubious honour of being one of the few cities in the world
to have human-drawn rickshaws. There are also a large number of
cycle-drawn rickshaws in the city. Those in South Calcutta operate
between fixed points - usually, two rickshaw stands in neighbouring
localities.
Auto-rickshaws These are used as shared taxis on certain routes
and link with Metro stations like Kalighat and Tollygunge. Fixed
fares make decisions easy.
Ferry
The
ghats near Eden Gardens form the hub of a ferry system. There is
a regular service from Chandpal Ghat to Howrah Station, while other
routes head downriver from Armenian Ghat, Chandpal or Babu Ghats
to the Botanical Gardens.
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